Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Galapagos - Nature vs Society



Lending on Galapagos Island is unique sensation. Watching so many programs about it makes you feel you`ve been there already, “The Enchanted Islands.” With smile on our faces we walked towards house of our next hosts – Alejandra and Pauli.
Right on first day we visited Interpretation center which explained the way life rolls on islands. San Cristobal is the only island with fresh water. Others pretty much depend on boats that bring drinking water or desalinization machines. Humans, like always, tried to take over islands for many years…killed thousands of very unique giant tortoises for fresh meat and oil to light up streets of Guayaquil and seriously endangering  many species, by bringing domestic animals such as goat, donkey, dog, cat, pigeon and mosquitoes. All of these animals in some way destroy native creatures, either by hunting them, eat their eggs or simply eat all vegetation.
To our surprise “The Enchanted Islands” didn`t turn to be as enchanted as we thought. Generally, people living on islands are not aware of what they have on islands. For example to some of them, sea lions are too noisy and sleep on beaches and birds still fish from fisherman. What interests them more is the specie “Tourist” AKA “Gringo”, who will give them money in pure dollar paper. But they miss to understand that if there are no sea lions, birds, fishes or turtles, there are no tourists.
If you take a cruise, you pay A LOT and see those lovely, clean a fixed places that make you feel amazing (sometimes they even look artificial). Here you will definitely believe that life in Galapagos is extraordinary. But if you do visit by yourself, just the way we did, you will discover the “other” side of islands. How unenhanced people are. Besides all mountains of garbage, unfinished constructions, we saw dead dog stuffed in plastic bag thrown right next to the sidewalk and no one seemed to bother. Although our frustration was in high levels, there was nothing we could do about it so we simply decided we gonna enjoy this special time in such special place with such a special nature. So we sat on the beach and watched sleeping sea lions. =D
In “La Loberia”, getting into water was brave decision but in the moment there was sea lion swimming next to us, all sensation made us forget how cold we were J They are so agile in water..swim and twist and roll..will never forget it. First time is always first time J
Alejandra landed her snorkeling gear to us so we got better idea of what was swimming with us. Oh man!!! The variety of fishes and sea lions were pretty enough, but when we spot our first sea turtle, ooooh, what a feeling!!!!! J They are so gentle, laid back, peaceful creatures. We swam over top of them and watched them eat algae from rocks, one of them was simply huge around 2 meters length.
One of the days we went walking to only volcano in San Cristobal Island called El Junco. Well, at first we took taxi to nearby village and then walked for 2.5hours. It was a lovely walk till the top of volcano where we saw frigate birds washing themselves in the lagoon on top of volcano. Unfortunately, it was cloudy so we couldn`t see rest of island. On the way back we turned to a view point we thought it was just around the corner. Well, we walked for 1.5 hour through fields and up to the hill and finally we got to a lonely cottage in the middle of nowhere. We got amazing views!!! Here we really felt alone in island. Magnificent and Enchanted!!!
On another day, we set on our feet to walk to hacienda with coffee plantation and opuntia`s garden. You should all see smile on Nuno`s face. So many coffee plants!!! :D At first we wanted to find coffee factory, we walked and walked and found nothing but coffee plants. So we turned back and continued downhill towards Opuntia`s garden and beach. Hundreds of opuntia cactuses – tall, short, fat, slim..amazing!!! They grow only 1cm per 1 year! We had our snack on the empty(human…not sea lion) beach sheltered under the trees. Here we were on another place all alone with peaceful in mind and souls. As we stud up and got ready to leave we spotted pile of tiny turtle shells. I guess, those ones didn`t make it from nests to the ocean. :/ Natural selection. We turn around to say bye to the beach and suddenly saw movement on the rocks. Sea turtle struggling on rocks trying to get back to ocean. Nuno, in full spirit of rescue, even fell into the water while he was carrying turtle back to safety. :D
We extended our stay in Galapagos and so we set on to explore Isabela Island. We took early morning speed boat to Santa Cruz Island. Over there we visited Charles Darwin center. Besides hundreds of giant tortoises there was nothing else to see. After lunch we took second speed boat to Isabela Island. To our surprise we saw dolphins, one of them jumping like mental and albatrosses fishing in open ocean. J During the trip we got to know Camile, a US/French girl and then her friend Fabianna, German, which was waiting for her and so we went all together to stay in hostel called Posada del Caminante. The best value, place and clean hostel so far. Lauro, the owner is very friendly, funny, talkative and helpful person. He gave us tips for free tours, directions and we took amazing boat tour with his friend. We had some walks and many talks with girls and finally great roasted chicken for dinner :D girls, thanks a lot for your time, we enjoyed it a lot. Hope, to see you in Europe one day ;)
After seeing sea lions, marine iguanas, several types of fishes, sea turtles, giant tortoises pelicans, frigates birds, blue footed boobies, albatrosses, dolphins we wouldn´t think there was more to find. And we were standing on wooden path looking at beautiful pink flamingos. WOW!!!! What a gorgeous bird.
We didn´t finish adding species to our list. As we walked down the mole to get ready for boat tour, Janka spotted penguins swimming and fishing in ocean. So, so, so cute little animals!!!
After 40 mins boat ride we arrived to spectacular place called Los Tuneles. The lava that erupted from one of Isabela´s volcanoes, flown to the ocean and created tunnels and lanes which cooled downand create a very special landscape, a really special place. Besides high number of sea turtles, we saw chicks of blue footed boobies. So cute white fluffy birds. Their wings were already bigger than their bodies J After this magical moment we went to snorkel and for very first time in our lifes we had chance to swim with sharks and rays!!! What a feeling!!! Even though those sharks were not dangerous species, swim with them was a bit scary to Janka and an adrenaline experience for Nuno. =D
On our last day in Isabella Island we were very happy to see wild giant tortoises in the National Park. They are so extremely slow :D and that make them very vulnerable. We also visit the impressive “Muro de las lagrimas”(wall of tears) made by prisoners for them to don´t get bored in Island.
On our way back to San Cristobal we stopped again in Santa Cruz and we visit another paradisiac beach, the “Tortuga Bay”, great water colors and loads of iguanas.
Well overall we had a great time, many lovely walks, snorkeled in several spots and sunbathed on different beaches on 3 Galapagos Islands. We definitely bring unforgettable memories from such unique and “enchanted” place, we just wish that sustainability will once arrive and be implemented on all of them, otherwise Charles Darwin will keep rolling in his grave.

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